Surfactant Formulation
Cleanser Mildness Index
Weighted active matter, mildness, foam, and charge balance for cleansing blends — tuned for the pH-sensitive acid mantle of melanin-rich skin.
Product target
Target active matter 8–14% · minimum mildness 4.5/5. Keep pH 4.5–5.5. Avoid SCS/SLES alone.
Surfactant blend
% is the supplied material in the finished product (not active matter).
→ 7.5% act
→ 5.0% act
→ 2.4% act
Results
Active matter
14.9 %
Mildness (1–5)
4.84
Foam (1–5)
3.66
Anionic share
50 %
Active matter out of range for face cleanser (sensitive / melanin-rich). Aim 8–14%. Currently 14.9%.
Anionic
7.5%
Amphoteric
2.4%
Nonionic
5.0%
Formulation rules
- Active matter drives cleansing power AND dryness — stay inside the target range.
- Mildness ≥ 4.5 for facial, scalp-sensitive, and intimate washes.
- CAPB / Coco Sultaine at 15–30% of total active reduces irritation of anionic primaries.
- Cationic conditioners (Polyquats, BTMS) precipitate with anionic surfactants — keep in conditioner, not shampoo.
- pH 4.5–5.5 for skin and scalp; intimate wash 4.0–4.5. Adjust with citric acid post-cool.
- Glucosides raise pH — buffer down with lactic or citric acid.
- Syndet bars need ≥50% active matter (SCI-dominant) to hold shape.