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The Apothecary Os

Guide

Hair butter recipe (curly, coily, 4c)

The Apothecary Os is the first formulation OS built for melanated skin and hair — this guide shows you how to formulate a sealing hair butter matched to your porosity, without the greasy build-up.

Match the butter to your porosity

The single biggest mistake in DIY hair butter is ignoring porosity. Butters that lock in moisture on high-porosity 4c hair will suffocate low-porosity 3b hair.

  • Low porosity — 80% liquid oils (grapeseed, jojoba, argan), 20% butter (mango).
  • Medium porosity — 50/50 butter + oil. Shea, mango, jojoba, sweet almond.
  • High porosity — 70% butter (shea, murumuru, mango), 30% oil (avocado, castor).

Base recipe (medium porosity, 100g)

  • 40g raw shea butter
  • 15g mango butter
  • 25g sweet almond oil
  • 15g jojoba oil
  • 4g castor oil (thickness + shine)
  • 1g vitamin E

Method is identical to body butter — melt, cool, whip. See the body butter guide for temperatures.

Frequently asked

Is hair butter good for 4c hair?

Yes — especially when sealed over a leave-in. 4c hair loses moisture fastest, and butters (shea, mango, murumuru) create the occlusive layer that stops evaporation. Pair with a humectant-rich leave-in first.

Will it weigh my curls down?

Only if the butter/oil ratio is wrong for your porosity. High-porosity hair loves heavier butters; low-porosity needs a lighter blend — mostly liquid oils with 20% butter max. Use our hair porosity tool to match.

Can I use hair butter on my scalp?

Sparingly. Butters can trap sebum and buildup on the scalp. Focus on mid-length to ends. For scalp issues (dandruff, seborrheic dermatitis), use the scalp condition guide instead.

How often should I use it?

Every wash day for high-porosity or 4c hair; 2–3× a week for medium; only on ends for low-porosity hair.

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