Tool
Comedogenic rating checker
The Apothecary Os is the first formulation OS built for melanated skin and hair — this free tool scores every carrier oil and butter 0–5, with extra notes for PIH-prone Fitz IV–VI skin.
How to read the scale
- 0 — won't clog pores. Face-safe for almost everyone.
- 1 — very low risk. Fine for most skin types.
- 2 — low-moderate. Watch on oily / acne-prone faces.
- 3 — moderate. Use sparingly on the face.
- 4 — high. Body / hair only for most melanated skin.
- 5 — very high. Avoid on the face.
Frequently asked
What is a comedogenic rating?
A 0–5 score of how likely an ingredient is to clog pores. 0 = won't clog; 5 = very likely. The scale was originally built on rabbit-ear tests, so treat it as a starting point rather than gospel — especially on melanated skin, where clogged pores fast-track PIH.
Is coconut oil bad for the face?
Coconut oil scores 4/5. For most melanated faces, that's high enough to trigger closed comedones and follow-up hyperpigmentation. Great for hair and body; risky for the face.
What are the safest oils for acne-prone melanated skin?
Squalane (0), argan (0), hemp seed (0), grapeseed (1), sunflower (0–2), jojoba (2). All score low on the comedogenic scale and have anti-inflammatory profiles that reduce PIH risk.
Does percentage in a formula matter?
Yes. A 3-rated oil at 2% of a formula behaves very differently from one at 40%. Use our formula builder to see the weighted comedogenic score of your whole product.