Curl science
Hair Porosity & Protein/Moisture Balance
Built for Type 3–4 hair common across the African diaspora. Answer five quick questions to diagnose porosity, then get a tailored protein/moisture ratio, oil list, and humectant plan for your climate.
Your hair
Porosity signs
Strand in water
Product absorption
Air-dry time
Frizz after wash
Wet breakage
Diagnosis
Medium porosity
Slightly raised cuticle. Balanced absorption and retention.
Hair sinks gradually within 2–4 minutes.
Moisture vs Protein balance
Every 4–6 weeks; light-to-medium protein.
Easiest to maintain. Watch for shifts toward high-porosity from heat/color damage.
Best oils for sealing
- • Argan
- • Jojoba
- • Olive
- • Avocado
- • Sweet Almond
Avoid
- ✗ Sulfates (SLS) weekly — over-strips
Humectants for moderate humidity
- Glycerin2–10%
Behaves badly at <30% or >70% humidity — frizz risk.
- Propanediol 1,32–10%
Lighter, less dew-sensitive glycerin alternative.
- Sodium PCA0.5–2%
NMF component. Stable across climates.
- Panthenol1–5%
Penetrates shaft; humectant + film-former.
- Honeyquat1–4%
Cationic humectant — bonus detangling.
- Aloe Vera Juice5–95%
Mild, scalp-soothing humectant base.
- Hyaluronic Acid (LMW)0.1–1%
Penetrates cortex; intense binding.
Recommended proteins
| Protein | Strength | Size | Usage | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Hydrolyzed Quinoa Protein | light | small | 1–4% | Color-protective; lightweight. Safe for low porosity weekly. |
| Hydrolyzed Oat Protein | light | small | 1–5% | Soothing; great for sensitive scalps. |
| Hydrolyzed Rice Protein | light | small | 1–5% | Adds body & shine. Universal. |
| Hydrolyzed Silk Protein | medium | small | 1–3% | Slip + shine. Pairs with humectants. |
| Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein | medium | medium | 2–4% | Classic strengthener. Good for medium porosity. |
| Hydrolyzed Soy Protein | medium | medium | 2–4% | Moisture-retentive; good for color-treated hair. |
| Hydrolyzed Collagen | medium | medium | 2–5% | Elasticity + slip. |
| Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein | medium | medium | 2–4% | Vegan keratin alternative. |
Rule of thumb: if hair feels mushy/limp → needs protein. If hair feels straw-like / snaps dry → needs moisture. Rotate, never stack. Always deep-condition with moisture after a protein treatment.