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The Apothecary Os

Formulation

Emulsifier Calculator (HLB)

(hydrophilic-lipophilic balance) is a 0–20 scale for how water-loving or oil-loving an emulsifier is. For a stable oil-in-water emulsion, like most lotions and creams, your emulsifier blend's HLB should match your oils' required HLB within ±1.

Oil phase

17.00%
HLB 7
HLB 8
HLB 15.5

Emulsifier blend

4.00%
HLB 14.9
HLB 4.7

Result

Required HLB

8.29

weighted oil phase

Blend HLB

12.35

weighted emulsifier mix

Δ HLB

+4.06

✗ retune blend

Suggested ratio for required HLB 8.29:

35.2% Polysorbate 60 + 64.8% Sorbitan Stearate (Span 60) (of total emulsifier mass)

Notes: total emulsifier ≈ 4–8% for lotions, 6–12% for creams. Always include a co-emulsifier or fatty alcohol (Cetearyl Alcohol 2–4%) for body and stability. Validate with a 4-week stability trial (see /stability).