Carrier Oil
Abyssinian Oil Crambe abyssinica
Yes
Natural silicone alternative; best heat-protectant carrier for natural hair; very lightweight and non-greasy
Comedo · 0 Ethiopia
Botanical
Activated Charcoal Activated carbon (coconut-shell or bamboo-derived)
Yes
Deep-pore detox, draws out excess sebum, oil, and impurities. Mild physical exfoliant when used with grit.
Comedo · — Powder
Butter
Almond Butter Prunus dulcis
No — Tree Nut
Lightweight, fast-absorbing — excellent in lip balms and facial balms when nut allergens are not a concern.
Comedo · 2 Mediterranean, California
Botanical
Aloe Vera (Inner Leaf) Aloe barbadensis
Yes
Hydration, healing, soothes hyperpigmentation and razor burn.
Comedo · — Asphodelaceae
Tyrosinase inhibitor — reduces hyperpigmentation gradually.
Comedo · — Extract
Carrier Oil
Andiroba Oil Carapa guianensis
Yes
Limonoids give natural insect-repellent properties; anti-inflammatory; traditional Amazonian medicine; sustainable sourcing critical
Comedo · 1 Amazon, Brazil
Carrier Oil
Apricot Kernel Oil Prunus armeniaca
Caution
Stone fruit kernel — lower tree nut risk but cross-reactivity with almonds possible. Patch test for allergy-aware lines.
Comedo · 2 China, Central Asia
Carrier Oil
Argan Oil Argania spinosa
Caution
Tree nut source — often debated. Patch test recommended for nut-allergic clients. One of best all-around hair oils.
Comedo · 0 Morocco
Butter
Avocado Butter Persea americana
Yes
Soft, buttery feel ideal for mature melanin-rich skin and deep-conditioning hair masks.
Comedo · 3 Mexico, Central America
Carrier Oil
Avocado Oil Persea americana
Yes
Rich and heavy — excellent in hair masks; high sterolins help repair damaged skin barrier; great for deep conditioning treatments
Comedo · 3 Mexico, Global
Carrier Oil
Babassu Oil Orbignya speciosa
Caution
Palm family — NOT a tree nut but patch test for severe nut-allergic clients. Often used as a coconut oil alternative. Melts at skin temp.
Comedo · 2 Brazil
Butter
Bacuri Butter Platonia insignis
Yes
Rare Amazonian dark butter — therapeutic anti-inflammatory action for hyperpigmentation and post-inflammatory marks on brown skin.
Comedo · 2 Amazon (Brazil)
Exfoliation.
Comedo · — Powder
Botanical
Bakuchiol Psoralea corylifolia
Yes
Plant retinol alternative — collagen, tone, fine lines without photosensitivity.
Comedo · — Extract
Carrier Oil
Baobab Oil Adansonia digitata
Yes
Excellent for melanin-rich skin — supports skin elasticity and even tone. Vitamins A, D, E, F rich. African heritage ingredient.
Comedo · 2 Sub-Saharan Africa
Butter
Batana Butter Elaeis oleifera
Yes
Heritage Afro-Indigenous hair butter — premium hair growth and scalp restoration ingredient.
Comedo · 3 Honduras (Miskito region)
Carrier Oil
Batana Oil (Ojon) Elaeis oleifera
Yes
Indigenous Miskito women of Honduras have used this for generations — hair growth and restoration properties are legendary. Dr. Sebi popularized in Western natural health spaces. Distinct from African palm (Elaeis guineensis). Dark brown color, rich earthy-nutty scent. Viral repeatedly in Black natural hair community. Ethical sourcing supports indigenous Miskito communities — verify supplier. Excellent BST brand story ingredient. Use 5-20% in hair masks, sealers, and growth treatments.
Comedo · 2 Honduras — La Mosquitia (Miskito people)
Essential Oil
Benzoin Resinoid Yes
Vanilla-balsamic; benzyl benzoate allergen.
Comedo · — Base note · resin
Essential Oil
Bergamot (FCF) Yes
Use FCF (furocoumarin-free) for leave-on; otherwise phototoxic.
Comedo · — Top note · citrus
Botanical
Bergamot Essential Oil (non-FCF) Citrus bergamia
Yes
Bright citrus scent.
Comedo · — Extract
Botanical
Black Hawaiian Lava Salt Activated charcoal + Pacific sea salt
Yes
Detox + physical exfoliation in one. Striking visual for 'black' body scrub lines.
Comedo · — Powder
Carrier Oil
Black Seed Oil Nigella sativa
Yes
Strong peppery scent — blend with EOs. Thymoquinone content gives powerful anti-inflammatory action. Excellent for scalp conditions.
Comedo · 2 Middle East, Asia
Carrier Oil
Blueberry Seed Oil Vaccinium corymbosum
Yes
Extremely high antioxidant content; balanced omega-3/6 ratio; luxury ingredient; excellent for anti-aging and brightening formulas
Comedo · 1 North America
Carrier Oil
Borage Seed Oil Borago officinalis
Yes
Highest GLA content of any common carrier oil. Refrigerate and use quickly — very short shelf life. Powerful for eczema/psoriasis formulas.
Comedo · 2 Europe
Carrier Oil
Broccoli Seed Oil Brassica oleracea italica
Yes
Natural silicone alternative — mimics cyclopentasiloxane texture in hair. Excellent for serums, shine sprays, leave-in conditioners.
Comedo · 1 Global
Botanical
Burdock Root Arctium lappa
Yes
Scalp circulation, traction alopecia support, antibacterial.
Comedo · — Infusion
Carrier Oil
Buriti Oil Mauritia flexuosa
Yes
Highest plant source of beta-carotene. Natural SPF properties. Particularly excellent for melanin-rich skin. Orange-red tint — use at 5-10%.
Comedo · 2 Amazon, Brazil
Botanical
Caffeine (anhydrous) Trimethylxanthine
Yes
Constricts surface vessels — firms saggy areas, temporarily reduces dark under-eye circles.
Comedo · — Extract
Botanical
Calendula Infused Oil Calendula officinalis
Yes
Wound healing, eczema, post-inflammatory repair.
Comedo · — Asteraceae
Carrier Oil
Camellia Seed Oil Camellia oleifera
Yes
Traditional Japanese Tsubaki beauty oil. Lightweight and non-greasy. Used for centuries on hair and skin. One of the most versatile carriers.
Comedo · 1 China, Japan
Carrier Oil
Castor Oil Ricinus communis
Yes
Humectant properties. Very thick — always blend with lighter oil (3:7 ratio). Jamaican Black Castor Oil (JBCO) preferred for hair growth.
Comedo · 1 Africa, India
Essential Oil
Cedarwood (Atlas) Yes
Dry, pencil-shaving warmth.
Comedo · — Base note · woody
Botanical
Chamomile (German) Hydrosol Matricaria chamomilla
Caution
Anti-inflammatory, soothes eczema and reactive skin.
Comedo · — Asteraceae
Butter
Chia Seed Butter Salvia hispanica
Yes
Omega-3 powerhouse — barrier repair for compromised and inflamed melanin-rich skin.
Comedo · 1 Mexico, Central America
Carrier Oil
Chia Seed Oil Salvia hispanica
Yes
Highest plant omega-3 content. Absorbs quickly without residue. Anti-inflammatory properties benefit sensitive skin and scalp.
Comedo · 1 Mexico, South America
Botanical
Cinnamon Bark EO Yes
Warming scent.
Comedo · — Extract
Avoid in pregnancy.
Comedo · — Heart note · herbal
Butter
Cocoa Butter Theobroma cacao
Yes
Longest shelf life of all 4 butters (up to 5 years). High stearic acid creates firm, long-lasting barrier — excellent for body butters and hair sealants. Natural chocolate scent is a brand story asset.
Comedo · 4 West Africa, South America
Carrier Oil
Coconut Oil (Fractionated) Cocos nucifera
No — Tree Nut
TREE NUT — fractionation removes most proteins, reducing (but NOT eliminating) allergen risk. Stays liquid. Very long shelf life.
Comedo · 2 Tropical Global
Carrier Oil
Coconut Oil (Virgin) Cocos nucifera
No — Tree Nut
TREE NUT — significant allergy risk. Widely cross-reactive. Avoid in allergy-aware lines OR clearly label. Solid below 76°F.
Comedo · 4 Tropical Global
Butter
Coffee Bean Butter Coffea arabica
Yes
Caffeine-rich firming butter — eye balms, cellulite creams, scalp stimulators.
Comedo · 2 Ethiopia, Brazil, Colombia
Carrier Oil
Cranberry Seed Oil Vaccinium macrocarpon
Yes
Unique 1:1 omega-3 to omega-6 ratio — rare in nature. Excellent antioxidant profile. Good for anti-aging and brightening formulations.
Comedo · 1 North America
Botanical
Cucumber Juice / Extract Cucumis sativus
Yes
High water + silica content. Chills the skin, flushes under-eye puffiness, and tightens pores.
Comedo · — Cucurbitaceae
Butter
Cupuaçu Butter Theobroma grandiflorum
Yes
Humectant butter — only butter that behaves like hyaluronic acid. Premium for plump, dewy melanin-rich skin.
Comedo · 1 Amazon (Brazil)
Botanical
Dead Sea Salt Magnesium-rich mineral salt
Yes
High-magnesium profile draws out pore impurities, relieves scaling skin and scalp.
Comedo · — Powder
Butter
Dhupa Butter Vateria indica
Yes
Stabilizes solid bars and lotion bars — natural alternative to beeswax-heavy formulas.
Comedo · 2 India (Western Ghats)
Botanical
Epsom Salt Magnesium sulfate
Yes
Pure magnesium sulfate — flushes skin fluid retention, lifts limp hair.
Comedo · — Powder
Avoid on children <6.
Comedo · — Top note · camphor
Carrier Oil
Evening Primrose Oil Oenothera biennis
Yes
High GLA content — anti-inflammatory. Very short shelf life — refrigerate. Ideal for mature/dry skin and hormonal acne blends.
Comedo · 2 North America, Europe
Carrier Oil
Flaxseed Oil Linum usitatissimum
Yes
Very short shelf life — refrigerate, use in small batches. High comedogenic rating limits facial use. Excellent in hair gel/cream formulations.
Comedo · 4 Global
Essential Oil
Frankincense (Sacra) Yes
Meditative; bridges floral & wood.
Comedo · — Base note · resin
Botanical
Frankincense (Sacra) EO Boswellia sacra
Yes
Cell regeneration, scar healing, anti-inflammatory.
Comedo · — Resinoid
Botanical
Fulvic Acid Humic-derived organic acid
Yes
Mineral optimizer — dramatically boosts how deeply other actives penetrate the skin matrix.
Comedo · — Extract
Essential Oil
Geranium Bourbon Yes
Rosy, herbaceous.
Comedo · — Heart note · floral
Botanical
Ginseng Root Extract Panax ginseng
Yes
Stimulates skin microcirculation — wakes dull complexions, feeds hair follicles.
Comedo · — Extract
Botanical
Gotu Kola Centella asiatica
Yes
Stimulates collagen, repairs scars, calms inflammation.
Comedo · — Apiaceae
Carrier Oil
Grapeseed Oil Vitis vinifera
Yes
Very lightweight and non-greasy. High linoleic acid ideal for oily/acne-prone skin. Budget-friendly versatile carrier for all formulation types.
Comedo · 1 Europe, Global
Botanical
Greek Yogurt / Cold Milk Natural lactic acid (AHA)
Yes
Gentlest AHA — dissolves dead-cell glue without abrasive scrubbing.
Comedo · — Extract
Botanical
Green Tea Extract Camellia sinensis
Yes
Potent antioxidant (EGCG), reduces UV damage and PIH.
Comedo · — Extract
Carrier Oil
Hazelnut Oil Corylus avellana
No — Tree Nut
TREE NUT — HIGH allergy risk. Hazelnuts are among the top tree nut allergens. Do NOT use in allergy-aware BST formulations.
Comedo · 2 Turkey, Europe
Botanical
Helichrysum EO Helichrysum italicum
Yes
Bruise healing, PIH reduction, regenerative.
Comedo · — Extract
Butter
Hemp Seed Butter Cannabis sativa
Yes
Zero comedogenic — face-safe butter ideal for acne-prone melanin-rich skin.
Comedo · 0 Canada, Europe, China
Carrier Oil
Hemp Seed Oil Cannabis sativa
Yes
Ideal 3:1 omega-6 to omega-3 ratio mirrors skin's needs. Zero comedogenic rating. No THC/CBD effects. Excellent for all skin/hair types.
Comedo · 0 Global
Botanical
Hibiscus Powder Hibiscus sabdariffa
Yes
Natural AHA-like action, stimulates hair growth, rich in anthocyanins.
Comedo · — Powder
Botanical
Himalayan Pink Salt Trace-mineral rock salt
Yes
Dozens of trace minerals — physically exfoliates rough patches while balancing skin pH.
Comedo · — Powder
Botanical
Horsetail Equisetum arvense
Yes
Silica-rich, strengthens hair shaft and nails.
Comedo · — Infusion
Botanical
Hyaluronic Acid (LMW/HMW) Sodium hyaluronate
Yes
Binds up to 1000× its weight in water. LMW penetrates; HMW films and plumps surface.
Comedo · — Extract
Aggressive lightening.
Comedo · — Extract
Butter
Illipe Butter Shorea stenoptera
Yes
Cocoa butter alternative with even longer skin-melt time — premium barrier butter for ashy/dehydrated melanin-rich skin.
Comedo · 0 Borneo, Malaysia
Essential Oil
Jasmine Absolute Yes
Indolic, sensual; benzyl benzoate allergen.
Comedo · — Heart note · floral
Carrier Oil
Jojoba Oil (Liquid Wax) Simmondsia chinensis
Yes
Technically a liquid wax, not an oil. Closest structure to human sebum. Extremely stable (5-year shelf life). Best all-purpose base for any formulation.
Comedo · 2 Sonoran Desert, Global
Carrier Oil
Kalahari Melon Seed Oil Citrullus lanatus var. citroides
Yes
Distinct from commercial watermelon seed oil. Sustainably sourced; dry-feel profile; excellent African heritage ingredient for BST brand story.
Comedo · 1 Kalahari Desert, Southern Africa
Butter
Kokum Butter Garcinia indica
Yes
Hidden gem — zero comedogenic rating is exceptional for a butter. The only butter safe for acne-prone and oily skin. Garcinol content gives powerful antioxidant and anti-inflammatory action ideal for melanin-rich skin prone to hyperpigmentation.
Comedo · 0 India (Western Ghats)
Butter
Kombo Butter Pycnanthus angolensis
Yes
Therapeutic Afro-heritage butter — premium for muscle balms, joint salves, and pain-relief formulas.
Comedo · 2 West & Central Africa
Butter
Kpangnan Butter Pentadesma butyracea
Yes
Shea cousin from Benin — heritage African butter with smoother texture and richer vitamin E.
Comedo · 1 West Africa (Benin, Togo)
Carrier Oil
Kukui Nut Oil Aleurites moluccanus
No — Tree Nut
TREE NUT — moderate-to-high allergy risk. Cross-reactivity possible with other tree nuts. Avoid in allergy-aware lines.
Comedo · 2 Hawaii
Botanical
Lactobacillus / Bifida Ferments Postbiotic ferment lysates
Yes
Probiotic skin- and scalp-microbiome support. Calms eczema, dandruff, barrier damage.
Comedo · — Extract
Essential Oil
Lavender (40/42) Yes
Universally tolerated.
Comedo · — Heart note · herbal
Essential Oil
Lemon (cold-pressed) Yes
Phototoxic; cap 2% leave-on.
Comedo · — Top note · citrus
Botanical
Lemon / Lime Cold-pressed EO Yes
Brightening scent.
Comedo · — Extract
Botanical
Lemon Juice (raw) Yes
DIY brightening.
Comedo · — Extract
Botanical
Licorice Root Extract Glycyrrhiza glabra (glabridin)
Yes
Inhibits tyrosinase — brightens PIH, melasma, and dark spots safely.
Comedo · — Extract
Essential Oil
Lime (distilled) Yes
Distilled = non-phototoxic.
Comedo · — Top note · citrus
Carrier Oil
Macadamia Oil Macadamia integrifolia
No — Tree Nut
TREE NUT — high cross-reactivity with other tree nuts. High palmitoleic acid is unique among plant oils. Avoid in allergy-aware lines.
Comedo · 2 Australia
Butter
Mafura Butter Trichilia emetica
Yes
African heritage scalp butter — antimicrobial action ideal for scalp protocols for type 4 hair.
Comedo · 2 Southern & East Africa
Butter
Mango Butter Mangifera indica
Yes
Ideal nut-free shea alternative — very similar fatty acid profile. Can substitute 1:1 for shea in most formulations. Lighter skin feel makes it excellent for face moisturizers.
Comedo · 2 India, West Africa, Caribbean
Botanical
Marshmallow Root Althaea officinalis
Yes
Mucilaginous slip — incredible for detangling 4C hair and soothing scalp.
Comedo · — Infusion
Carrier Oil
Marula Oil Sclerocarya birrea
Caution
Stone fruit kernel — low nut cross-reactivity but patch test advised. Excellent for brown skin — supports elasticity and luminosity. African heritage.
Comedo · 3 Southern Africa
Carrier Oil
Meadowfoam Seed Oil Limnanthes alba
Yes
Natural fixative — extends shelf life of blends it's added to. Outstanding for hair products requiring long-lasting moisture and shine.
Comedo · 1 Pacific Northwest, USA
Carrier Oil
Mongongo/Manketti Oil Schinziophyton rautanenii
Yes
Traditional Southern African beauty oil. Unique eleostearic acid with antioxidant properties. Sustainably sourced. Powerful BST brand story ingredient.
Comedo · 2 Southern Africa (Namibia, Zimbabwe)
Carrier Oil
Moringa Oil Moringa oleifera
Yes
High behenic acid makes it exceptional for hair. Cleansing properties. Very stable shelf life. Used in Ayurvedic and African beauty traditions.
Comedo · 3 Africa, India
Butter
Mowrah Butter Madhuca latifolia
Yes
Anti-aging Indian heritage butter — softens fine lines on mature melanin-rich skin.
Comedo · 1 India, Nepal
Butter
Murumuru Butter Astrocaryum murumuru
Yes
Premium curl-definition butter — heritage Amazonian ingredient for type 3/4 hair.
Comedo · 3 Amazon (Brazil)
Balsamic; avoid in pregnancy.
Comedo · — Base note · resin
Carrier Oil
Neem Oil Azadirachta indica
Yes
Strong sulfur odor — always blend at 2-5% with other oils and EOs. Powerful anti-fungal and anti-bacterial. Best scalp treatment carrier.
Comedo · 2 India, Africa
Bridges citrus to florals.
Comedo · — Heart note · floral
Botanical
Nettle Leaf Urtica dioica
Yes
Mineral-dense scalp tonic, reduces excess sebum, strengthens hair.
Comedo · — Infusion
Botanical
Niacinamide Vitamin B3
Yes
Barrier support, sebum control, reduces PIH and redness.
Comedo · — Extract
Butter
Olive Butter Olea europaea (hydrogenated)
Yes
Mediterranean heritage emollient — heavy sealing for severely dry/ashy melanin-rich skin.
Comedo · 2 Mediterranean
Carrier Oil
Olive Oil (Extra Virgin) Olea europaea
Yes
One of the most widely used and culturally significant oils in the world — Mediterranean, African, and Middle Eastern beauty traditions all rely on it. Squalene content is identical to skin's own lipids and repairs the skin barrier. Heavy feel makes it better for hair and body than face. Affordable and widely accessible. Pairs beautifully with shea butter and castor oil for deep conditioning hair masks. Use extra virgin for maximum polyphenol content. Excellent pre-poo oil for 4A–4C natural hair to prevent hygral fatigue.
Comedo · 2 Mediterranean, Global
Carrier Oil
Olive Oil (Extra Virgin) Olea europaea
Yes
Heavy — better for hair and body than face. Squalene content repairs skin barrier. Rich in polyphenols. Affordable and widely accessible.
Comedo · 2 Mediterranean
Carrier Oil
Passion Fruit (Maracuja) Seed Oil Passiflora edulis
Yes
Luxury oil. High linoleic content ideal for oily/acne-prone skin. Light tropical scent. Excellent for brightening formulas targeting hyperpigmentation.
Comedo · 1 Brazil, Tropics
Essential Oil
Patchouli (dark) Yes
Improves with age.
Comedo · — Base note · earthy
Carrier Oil
Peach Kernel Oil Prunus persica
Caution
Stone fruit kernel — lower nut allergy risk than tree nuts but cross-reactivity with apricot/almond possible. Similar to apricot kernel oil.
Comedo · 2 China, Global
Cooling; dilute heavily.
Comedo · — Top note · herbal
Carrier Oil
Perilla Seed Oil Perilla frutescens
Yes
Exceptionally high omega-3 (ALA) content — highest of commonly used culinary oils. Short shelf life. Anti-inflammatory for sensitive conditions.
Comedo · 1 East Asia
Butter
Phulwara Butter Diploknema butyracea
Yes
Cold-weather Himalayan barrier butter — premium winter formulations for melanin-rich skin.
Comedo · 2 Nepal, Northern India
Essential Oil
Pink Grapefruit Yes
Bright opening; oxidises fast.
Comedo · — Top note · citrus
Carrier Oil
Plum Kernel Oil Prunus domestica
Caution
Stone fruit kernel — lower allergy risk than tree nuts. Similar profile to apricot kernel but lighter. Elegant luxury feel in formulations.
Comedo · 1 Europe, Global
Carrier Oil
Pomegranate Seed Oil Punica granatum
Yes
Only plant source of punicic acid. Powerful antioxidant and skin regenerating properties. Excellent for hyperpigmentation — ideal for BST formulations.
Comedo · 1 Middle East, Global
Carrier Oil
Prickly Pear (Barbary Fig) Seed Oil Opuntia ficus-indica
Yes
Highest Vitamin E and K content of any carrier oil. Excellent for dark spots, hyperpigmentation, and uneven tone — particularly ideal for BST. Luxury price point.
Comedo · 0 Mexico, North Africa
Butter
Prickly Pear Butter Opuntia ficus-indica
Yes
Most expensive luxury anti-aging butter — premium tier face formulations for mature melanin-rich skin.
Comedo · 0 Morocco, Mexico
Carrier Oil
Pumpkin Seed Oil Cucurbita pepo
Yes
Research supports DHT-blocking properties beneficial for hair thinning prevention. Rich in zinc for scalp health. Dark green color — use at 10% in blends.
Comedo · 2 Eastern Europe, Global
Carrier Oil
Raspberry Seed Oil Rubus idaeus
Yes
Estimated natural SPF 28-50 (UV filter only — not a standalone sunscreen). Zero comedogenic rating. High antioxidant content. Excellent in day creams.
Comedo · 0 North America, Europe
Botanical
Raw Honey Mel (preferably manuka or local raw)
Yes
Natural antibacterial humectant. Clarifies acne-prone skin and uses native enzymes to gently dissolve dead skin cells.
Comedo · — Extract
Cell turnover, anti-aging, deep PIH reversal.
Comedo · — Extract
Carrier Oil
Rice Bran Oil Oryza sativa
Yes
Contains gamma-oryzanol and ferulic acid — anti-aging and brightening for melanin-rich skin. Popular in Japanese beauty. Excellent, affordable all-rounder.
Comedo · 2 Asia
Botanical
Rice Water / Rice Bran Ferment Oryza sativa
Yes
Traditional Asian beauty staple — ferulic acid creates a smooth, reflective 'glass skin' sheen.
Comedo · — Extract
Botanical
Roman Chamomile EO Chamaemelum nobile
Caution
Ultra-gentle aromatic — eases skin stress and reactive skin, comforting scent.
Comedo · — Asteraceae
Essential Oil
Rose Absolute Yes
Hero floral; geraniol allergen.
Comedo · — Heart note · floral
Botanical
Rose Hydrosol Rosa damascena water
Yes
Tones, calms inflammation, supports barrier — gentle on PIH-prone skin.
Comedo · — Rosaceae
Carrier Oil
Rosehip Seed Oil Rosa canina / rubiginosa
Yes
Trans-retinoic acid (natural Vitamin A) content. Excellent for dark spots, scars, uneven tone — HIGHLY recommended for BST. Refrigerate. Short shelf life.
Comedo · 1 Chile, South America
Carrier Oil
Sacha Inchi Oil Plukenetia volubilis
Caution
Sometimes classified as nut/seed — patch test advised. Exceptionally high omega-3 content. Zero comedogenic. Emerging ingredient in natural beauty.
Comedo · 0 Amazon, Peru
Carrier Oil
Safflower Oil (High-Linoleic) Carthamus tinctorius
Yes
Zero comedogenic rating. High-linoleic version best for acne-prone skin. Very light and affordable. Excellent blending oil for all formulation types.
Comedo · 0 Middle East, Asia
Butter
Sal Butter Shorea robusta
Yes
Matte-finish face butter for oily/acne-prone melanin-rich skin — pairs with Kokum for clarifying formulas.
Comedo · 0 India, Nepal
Essential Oil
Sandalwood (Australian) Yes
Creamy fixative; Australian = sustainable.
Comedo · — Base note · woody
Botanical
Sandalwood Powder Santalum album (chandan)
Yes
Ayurvedic astringent — mops excess sebum, cools active pimples.
Comedo · — Powder
Carrier Oil
Sea Buckthorn Berry Oil Hippophae rhamnoides (fruit pulp)
Yes
Intense orange — use at 1-3% in blends. Unique omega-7 content. Among highest natural vitamin C sources. Powerful anti-aging and brightening.
Comedo · 1 China, Europe
Carrier Oil
Sea Buckthorn Seed Oil Hippophae rhamnoides (seed)
Yes
Different fatty acid profile from berry oil. Lighter color and feel. High omega-3/6 balance. Less intense than berry oil — easier to blend at higher %.
Comedo · 1 China, Europe
Carrier Oil
Sesame Oil Sesamum indicum
Caution
Sesame is a top-9 allergen — treat with same caution as tree nuts. Natural sesamol/sesamin antioxidants give extended shelf life. Traditional Ayurvedic oil.
Comedo · 2 Africa, Asia
Butter
Shea Butter Vitellaria paradoxa
Caution
BST hero ingredient — deeply nourishing for melanin-rich skin, reduces ashy appearance, evens tone over time
Comedo · 0 West & East Africa
Butter
Shea Nilotica Vitellaria nilotica
Caution
Premium soft shea — luxe face moisturizers and lightweight whipped butters where West African shea is too heavy.
Comedo · 0 East Africa (Uganda, S. Sudan, Ethiopia)
Carrier Oil
Squalane (Olive-derived) Olea europaea (hydrogenated)
Yes
Stable hydrogenated form of squalene. Excellent lightweight emollient. Mirrors natural skin sebum. Verify plant-based (olive/sugarcane) vs shark-derived source.
Comedo · 1 Mediterranean, Global
Carrier Oil
Sunflower Oil (High-Linoleic) Helianthus annuus
Yes
Zero comedogenic. High Vitamin E content. Non-greasy and versatile. Excellent affordable base/carrier for all formulation types. Universal starting point.
Comedo · 0 Global
Carrier Oil
Sweet Almond Oil Prunus amygdalus dulcis
No — Tree Nut
TREE NUT — one of the most common nut allergens. HIGH allergy risk. DO NOT use in allergy-aware BST formulations. Must be clearly labeled if used.
Comedo · 2 Mediterranean, California
Carrier Oil
Tamanu Oil Calophyllum inophyllum
Yes
Calophyllolide and calophyllic acid have documented wound-healing properties. Powerful — use at 5-25% in blends. Strong nutty scent. Excellent scar treatment.
Comedo · 2 Southeast Asia, Pacific Islands
Botanical
Tamanu Oil Calophyllum inophyllum
Yes
Wound healing, scar reduction, photoprotective.
Comedo · — Extract
Botanical
Tea Tree EO (undiluted) Melaleuca alternifolia
Yes
Antibacterial, antifungal.
Comedo · — Extract
Essential Oil
Tonka Bean Absolute Yes
Coumarin; strict IFRA cap.
Comedo · — Base note · gourmand
Botanical
Tremella Mushroom Tremella fuciformis / snow mushroom
Yes
Adaptogenic fungus whose polysaccharides hold many times their weight in water — a plant-based partner to hyaluronic acid.
Comedo · — Extract
Butter
Tucuma Butter Astrocaryum vulgare
Yes
Natural silicone alternative — premium frizz-control hair butter and retinol-precursor face butter.
Comedo · 2 Amazon (Brazil)
Carrier Oil
Tucuma Oil Astrocaryum vulgare
Yes
Solid at room temp (butter/oil hybrid). Amazonian coconut alternative. Excellent for hair mask formulations. Rich BST brand story ingredient.
Comedo · 2 Amazon, Brazil
Botanical
Turmeric (Wild) Extract Curcuma aromatica / longa
Yes
Anti-inflammatory, brightening, reduces acne and PIH.
Comedo · — Extract
Butter
Ucuuba Butter Virola sebifera
Yes
Premium Amazonian anti-aging butter — top-tier mature melanin-rich skin formulations alongside Mowrah and Prickly Pear.
Comedo · 1 Amazon (Brazil)
Botanical
Vanilla Absolute / CO₂ Vanilla planifolia
Yes
Sweet, comforting warm aroma — well tolerated by sensitive skin when heavily diluted.
Comedo · — Resinoid
Sweet fixative; may discolour.
Comedo · — Base note · gourmand
Botanical
Vegetable Glycerin Glycerol (plant-derived)
Yes
Universal humectant — pulls ambient moisture into skin and hair. Plumps cells and softens hair.
Comedo · — Extract
Essential Oil
Vetiver (Haitian) Yes
Smoky, earthy fixative.
Comedo · — Base note · woody
Carrier Oil
Vitamin E (Tocopherol) Various plant sources
Yes
Use at 0.5-1% as natural preservative/antioxidant in blends. Extends shelf life of other oils. Check source (wheat germ vs soy vs mixed tocopherols).
Comedo · 2 Global
Carrier Oil
Watermelon Seed Oil Citrullus lanatus
Yes
Dry-oil profile — excellent for oily scalp and fine hair. Zero comedogenic. Non-greasy. Growing popularity in natural hair care. African heritage ingredient.
Comedo · 0 Africa, Global
Carrier Oil
Wheat Germ Oil Triticum vulgare
Yes
Highest natural Vitamin E source of any oil. Highly comedogenic (5) — use in hair treatments ONLY or as 3-10% additive. Contains gluten proteins.
Comedo · 5 Global
Botanical
Willow Bark Extract Salix alba — natural salicylic acid (BHA)
Caution
Botanical salicylic acid — cleans inside oily pores, prevents acne breakouts.
Comedo · — Salicaceae
Botanical
Witch Hazel Hydrosol Hamamelis virginiana (distillate, alcohol-free)
Yes
Astringent, tightens pores, reduces oiliness.
Comedo · — Hydrosol
Essential Oil
Ylang Ylang III Yes
Tropical; isoeugenol allergen.
Comedo · — Heart note · floral