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The Apothecary Os

Ingredient intelligence

Proteins & Humectants

The protein and moisture side of a hair formula. Match protein strength to porosity, and match humectant dew sensitivity to your climate. For a porosity-specific shortlist, use the Hair Porosity calculator.

Hydrolyzed proteins

Hydrolyzed Quinoa Protein

light · small molecule · 1–4%

Color-protective; lightweight. Safe for low porosity weekly.

Hydrolyzed Oat Protein

light · small molecule · 1–5%

Soothing; great for sensitive scalps.

Hydrolyzed Rice Protein

light · small molecule · 1–5%

Adds body & shine. Universal.

Hydrolyzed Silk Protein

medium · small molecule · 1–3%

Slip + shine. Pairs with humectants.

Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein

medium · medium molecule · 2–4%

Classic strengthener. Good for medium porosity.

Hydrolyzed Soy Protein

medium · medium molecule · 2–4%

Moisture-retentive; good for color-treated hair.

Hydrolyzed Keratin

strong · medium molecule · 2–5%

Matches hair's own protein. High porosity love.

Hydrolyzed Collagen

medium · medium molecule · 2–5%

Elasticity + slip.

Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein

medium · medium molecule · 2–4%

Vegan keratin alternative.

Low-porosity hair stiffens quickly with protein — stay light and infrequent. High-porosity hair usually needs medium-to-strong protein every 2–3 weeks, always followed by a moisturising deep conditioner.

Humectants

Glycerin

2–10% · dew sensitivity high

Behaves badly at <30% or >70% humidity — frizz risk.

Propanediol 1,3

2–10% · dew sensitivity medium

Lighter, less dew-sensitive glycerin alternative.

Sodium PCA

0.5–2% · dew sensitivity low

NMF component. Stable across climates.

Panthenol

1–5% · dew sensitivity low

Penetrates shaft; humectant + film-former.

Honeyquat

1–4% · dew sensitivity low

Cationic humectant — bonus detangling.

Aloe Vera Juice

5–95% · dew sensitivity low

Mild, scalp-soothing humectant base.

Hyaluronic Acid (LMW)

0.1–1% · dew sensitivity low

Penetrates cortex; intense binding.

High dew-sensitivity humectants (glycerin especially) pull water from the air in humid weather and pull it out of the hair in dry weather. Below 30% or above 70% relative humidity, switch to low-sensitivity options.