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The Apothecary Os

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Raw Materials Library

Browse the functional ingredients that make cleansers, conditioners, creams, and preserved formulas work. Learn what each material does, where it belongs, and what to verify before you formulate.

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Supplier documents decide the claim

COSMOS/Ecocert, natural-origin, and vegan status can vary by grade and supplier. Confirm the current specification sheet, safety data, and certification before making a product claim.

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Function
Source & standard30 of 30 materials

Surfactants (Cleansers)

7 materials

Decyl Glucoside

Gentle sugar-based cleanser for liquid shampoos and face washes.

5–20%
Typical use
5–20%
Formula phase
Water phase

Creates mild foam and pairs well with an amphoteric co-surfactant.

COSMOS/Ecocert
Naturally Derived
Vegan

Where to buy: Lotioncrafter · Formulator Sample Shop · Making Cosmetics · Gracefruit — see the Sourcing Guide

Keep in mind: The supplied material is alkaline; adjust and verify final pH.

Coco-Glucoside

Very mild nonionic cleanser.

5–20%
Typical use
5–20%
Formula phase
Water phase

Useful for sensitive scalp, facial, and baby-cleansing systems.

COSMOS/Ecocert
Naturally Derived
Vegan

Where to buy: Lotioncrafter · Formulator Sample Shop · Making Cosmetics · Gracefruit — see the Sourcing Guide

Keep in mind: Can thin formulas and requires final pH adjustment.

Sodium Cocoyl Glutamate

Premium amino-acid surfactant.

5–20%
Typical use
5–20%
Formula phase
Water phase

Low-stripping cleansing for moisturizing shampoos and sensitive skin.

COSMOS/Ecocert
Naturally Derived
Vegan

Where to buy: Lotioncrafter · Formulator Sample Shop · Making Cosmetics · Gracefruit — see the Sourcing Guide

Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate (SCI)

Creamy-lather surfactant for syndet bars.

20–60%
Typical use
20–60%
Formula phase
Oil phase

The standard base for mild, soap-free shampoo and cleansing bars.

COSMOS/Ecocert
Naturally Derived
Vegan

Where to buy: Lotioncrafter · Formulator Sample Shop · Making Cosmetics · Gracefruit — see the Sourcing Guide

Keep in mind: Wear respiratory protection when handling dry powder; process to supplier temperature guidance.

Coco-Betaine

Amphoteric co-surfactant that softens a cleanser blend.

5–15%
Typical use
5–15%
Formula phase
Water phase

Boosts foam while reducing the irritation potential of anionic surfactants.

COSMOS/Ecocert
Naturally Derived
Vegan

Where to buy: Lotioncrafter · Formulator Sample Shop · Making Cosmetics · Gracefruit — see the Sourcing Guide

Cocamidopropyl Betaine (CAPB)

Common foam-boosting co-surfactant.

5–15%
Typical use
5–15%
Formula phase
Water phase

Widely available and effective, but not generally accepted for natural certification.

Naturally Derived
Vegan

Where to buy: Lotioncrafter · Formulator Sample Shop · Making Cosmetics · Gracefruit — see the Sourcing Guide

Keep in mind: Can sensitize some users; coco-betaine is the cleaner certifiable swap.

Sodium Laureth Sulfate (SLES)

High-foam synthetic cleanser.

Supplier dependent
Typical use
Supplier dependent
Formula phase
Water phase

Included for comparison, not recommended for a natural-positioned formula.

Avoid

Where to buy: Lotioncrafter · Formulator Sample Shop · Making Cosmetics · Gracefruit — see the Sourcing Guide

Keep in mind: Not accepted for natural claims and may be stripping.

Conditioning Agents (Slip & Softness)

6 materials

Brassicamidopropyl Dimethylamine

Mustard-seed-derived conditioning and detangling agent.

1–5%
Typical use
1–5%
Formula phase
Oil phase

The closest certifiable option to BTMS-style slip.

COSMOS/Ecocert
Naturally Derived
Vegan

Where to buy: Lotioncrafter · Formulator Sample Shop · Aromantic · New Directions Aromatics · Moksha Lifestyle Products — see the Sourcing Guide

Keep in mind: Requires acid activation and final pH verification.

BTMS-50 (Behentrimonium Methosulfate)

High-performance conditioning emulsifier.

2–8%
Typical use
2–8%
Formula phase
Oil phase

Provides excellent slip, detangling, and emulsion structure for textured hair.

Naturally Derived
Vegan

Where to buy: Lotioncrafter · Formulator Sample Shop · Aromantic · New Directions Aromatics · Moksha Lifestyle Products — see the Sourcing Guide

Keep in mind: Rapeseed-derived but quaternized; usually not certifiable.

Marshmallow Root Extract

Plant mucilage for glide and detangling.

1–5%
Typical use
1–5%
Formula phase
Cool-down phase

Supports slip in leave-ins and rinse-out conditioners without a heavy coating.

COSMOS/Ecocert
Naturally Derived
Vegan

Where to buy: Lotioncrafter · Formulator Sample Shop · Aromantic · New Directions Aromatics · Moksha Lifestyle Products — see the Sourcing Guide

Vegetable Glycerin

Humectant that draws water into hair and skin.

2–5%
Typical use
2–5%
Formula phase
Water phase

Use moderately for coily and curly hair, especially in dry climates.

COSMOS/Ecocert
Naturally Derived
Vegan
Verify Source

Where to buy: Lotioncrafter · Formulator Sample Shop · Aromantic · New Directions Aromatics · Moksha Lifestyle Products — see the Sourcing Guide

Keep in mind: Obtain a vegetable-source statement; high levels may feel drying in very low humidity.

Hydrolyzed Rice Protein

Vegan protein that reinforces porous or damaged strands.

0.5–2%
Typical use
0.5–2%
Formula phase
Cool-down phase

Adds light strength and body without animal keratin.

COSMOS/Ecocert
Naturally Derived
Vegan

Where to buy: Lotioncrafter · Formulator Sample Shop · Aromantic · New Directions Aromatics · Moksha Lifestyle Products — see the Sourcing Guide

Keep in mind: Balance protein with moisture and reduce frequency if hair feels stiff.

Keratin

Animal-derived structural protein.

Supplier dependent
Typical use
Supplier dependent
Formula phase
Cool-down phase

Included for comparison; hydrolyzed rice, quinoa, or pea protein are vegan alternatives.

Avoid

Where to buy: Lotioncrafter · Formulator Sample Shop · Aromantic · New Directions Aromatics · Moksha Lifestyle Products — see the Sourcing Guide

Keep in mind: Usually sourced from wool or feathers and is not vegan.

Emulsifiers & Thickeners (Structure & Texture)

6 materials

Olivem 1000

Olive-derived oil-in-water emulsifier.

3–8%
Typical use
3–8%
Formula phase
Oil phase

Builds lotions, creams, and light conditioners with an elegant skin feel.

COSMOS/Ecocert
Naturally Derived
Vegan

Where to buy: Lotioncrafter · Making Cosmetics · Gracefruit · Voyageur Soap & Candle — see the Sourcing Guide

Montanov 68

Natural-origin emulsifier for creams and conditioners.

3–6%
Typical use
3–6%
Formula phase
Oil phase

Creates stable, rich emulsions with a soft finish.

COSMOS/Ecocert
Naturally Derived
Vegan

Where to buy: Lotioncrafter · Making Cosmetics · Gracefruit · Voyageur Soap & Candle — see the Sourcing Guide

Cetearyl Alcohol

Fatty alcohol that adds body, slip, and stability.

1–5%
Typical use
1–5%
Formula phase
Oil phase

This is a waxy conditioning ingredient, not a drying alcohol.

COSMOS/Ecocert
Naturally Derived
Verify Source

Where to buy: Lotioncrafter · Making Cosmetics · Gracefruit · Voyageur Soap & Candle — see the Sourcing Guide

Keep in mind: Specify vegetable-derived and verify palm or tallow source.

Xanthan Gum

Vegan water-phase thickener and stabilizer.

0.1–0.8%
Typical use
0.1–0.8%
Formula phase
Water phase

Adds viscosity to gels, washes, and emulsions.

COSMOS/Ecocert
Naturally Derived
Vegan

Where to buy: Lotioncrafter · Making Cosmetics · Gracefruit · Voyageur Soap & Candle — see the Sourcing Guide

Keep in mind: Pre-disperse in glycerin to reduce clumping.

Candelilla Wax

Hard vegan wax for balms, sticks, and pomades.

2–15%
Typical use
2–15%
Formula phase
Oil phase

A vegan alternative to beeswax, but harder and not a one-for-one replacement.

COSMOS/Ecocert
Naturally Derived
Vegan

Where to buy: Lotioncrafter · Making Cosmetics · Gracefruit · Voyageur Soap & Candle — see the Sourcing Guide

Emulsifying Wax NF

Reliable complete emulsifying wax.

3–8%
Typical use
3–8%
Formula phase
Oil phase

Included for comparison and conventional formulation work.

Avoid

Where to buy: Lotioncrafter · Making Cosmetics · Gracefruit · Voyageur Soap & Candle — see the Sourcing Guide

Keep in mind: Contains polysorbate 60 and is not appropriate for a natural-certification claim.

Preservatives (Protection)

5 materials

Geogard ECT

Broad-spectrum ready-made preservation blend.

0.6–1%
Typical use
0.6–1%
Formula phase
Cool-down phase

A practical certifiable option for small-batch water-based products.

COSMOS/Ecocert
Naturally Derived
Vegan

Where to buy: Lotioncrafter · Formulator Sample Shop · Aromantic — see the Sourcing Guide

Geogard Ultra

Gentle preservation blend for leave-on products.

0.75–2%
Typical use
0.75–2%
Formula phase
Cool-down phase

Works best in acidic formulas and benefits from a chelator.

COSMOS/Ecocert
Naturally Derived
Vegan

Where to buy: Lotioncrafter · Formulator Sample Shop · Aromantic — see the Sourcing Guide

Keep in mind: Verify the finished formula pH and complete challenge testing.

Geogard 221

Broad-spectrum blend with strong yeast and mold support.

0.2–1.1%
Typical use
0.2–1.1%
Formula phase
Cool-down phase

Suitable for many rinsed and leave-on water-based formulas.

COSMOS/Ecocert
Naturally Derived
Vegan

Where to buy: Lotioncrafter · Formulator Sample Shop · Aromantic — see the Sourcing Guide

Leucidal / Radish Root Ferment

Ferment-based preservation aid.

Supplier dependent
Typical use
Supplier dependent
Formula phase
Cool-down phase

Popular in natural products but often too weak to rely on alone.

Naturally Derived
Vegan

Where to buy: Lotioncrafter · Formulator Sample Shop · Aromantic — see the Sourcing Guide

Keep in mind: Pair with a proven system and validate with microbial challenge testing.

Liquid Germall Plus (Diazolidinyl Urea, Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate, Propylene Glycol)

Effective conventional broad-spectrum preservative.

0.1–0.5%
Typical use
0.1–0.5%
Formula phase
Cool-down phase

Included for comparison and conventional formulation work.

Avoid

Where to buy: Lotioncrafter · Formulator Sample Shop · Aromantic — see the Sourcing Guide

Keep in mind: A formaldehyde-releasing system; not accepted for natural claims.

pH Adjusters & Chelators (Stability)

6 materials

Citric Acid

Lowers the finished product pH.

As needed
Typical use
As needed
Formula phase
Cool-down phase

Use a diluted solution in tiny increments, then measure again.

COSMOS/Ecocert
Naturally Derived
Vegan

Where to buy: Formulator Sample Shop · Making Cosmetics · Lotioncrafter — see the Sourcing Guide

Keep in mind: Never estimate final pH from the dose; verify with a calibrated meter.

Lactic Acid

Lowers pH and can support moisture retention.

As needed
Typical use
As needed
Formula phase
Cool-down phase

Commercial cosmetic grades are commonly fermented from plant sugars.

COSMOS/Ecocert
Naturally Derived
Vegan

Where to buy: Formulator Sample Shop · Making Cosmetics · Lotioncrafter — see the Sourcing Guide

Keep in mind: Add as a dilution and verify final pH.

Sodium Hydroxide

Raises pH in very small controlled amounts.

As needed
Typical use
As needed
Formula phase
Cool-down phase

Useful when an acidic formula must be brought into its target range.

COSMOS/Ecocert
Vegan

Where to buy: Formulator Sample Shop · Making Cosmetics · Lotioncrafter — see the Sourcing Guide

Keep in mind: Caustic concentrate. Use a properly prepared dilute solution, PPE, and a calibrated pH meter.

Sodium Phytate

Natural-origin chelator and preservative booster.

0.05–0.2%
Typical use
0.05–0.2%
Formula phase
Water phase

Binds trace metals that can destabilize color, scent, and preservation.

COSMOS/Ecocert
Naturally Derived
Vegan

Where to buy: Formulator Sample Shop · Making Cosmetics · Lotioncrafter — see the Sourcing Guide

GLDA (Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate)

Biodegradable chelator and preservation booster.

0.1–0.5%
Typical use
0.1–0.5%
Formula phase
Water phase

Improves stability in hard water and supports preservative performance.

COSMOS/Ecocert
Naturally Derived
Vegan

Where to buy: Formulator Sample Shop · Making Cosmetics · Lotioncrafter — see the Sourcing Guide

Sodium Gluconate

Natural-origin chelator.

0.1–0.5%
Typical use
0.1–0.5%
Formula phase
Water phase

Helps reduce metal-driven discoloration and oxidation.

COSMOS/Ecocert
Naturally Derived
Vegan

Where to buy: Formulator Sample Shop · Making Cosmetics · Lotioncrafter — see the Sourcing Guide